We started the leg with a 16 day passage from Honolulu to the Marqueses. It went ridiculously well regardless of our complete lack of favorable winds until the last few days.
Arwen, me, Tristan, Noah, and Simon during a freshwater rinse
It was a great group of trainees and we all got to know each other very quickly; many very interesting discussions and debates which I enjoyed very much.
Some of the good sailing we got near the end, and fun times out on the bowsprit with James
Oh the joys of swim stops...
The passage passed with fun sail handling at night, crib games, games of 2100 questions (leg one-ers, you’ll find the humour behind this game..), head winds, and possibly the most epic stash party of all time. For anyone who has not been out on the boat, I should explain that you tend to crave all things sweet, chocolate, and nut related while you’re away from land. Tav, myself, Bec, Mary, Tristan, James, and Jer solved this problem with one fantastic night of gluttony. It involved all of us (in our ridiculous harnesses of course), huddled in the bow, clipped into each other, and perhaps the most laughter experienced to date. All in all we managed to destroy (in a worryingly short period of time...) three bags of M&Ms, three granola bars, a whole tub of peanut butter, five juice boxes, a rather large bar of chocolate, and an entire bottle of Hersheys ‘hard shell’ chocolate sauce. This was all accomplished while giggling fiendishly and spilling quite a lot on both ourselves (mostly me) and the deck. Then came a rather dramatic and prolonged sugar high, followed by a tremendous crash.
Oh yes, we also crossed the equator. King Neptune came through with epic style, accompanied by his entourage, and it was a hilarious affair.
Anemone and Starfish...lovely as ever.
Alltogether too much slop and spandex for anyone's liking. Since we crossed the line during the night we were a bit off by the time the ceremony came around, but it went through nonetheless with gusto.
The passage also included some of the best rain squalls Ive ever seen. Karen, Chris and I were on watch one night when a fantastic one hit. It was like Nairobi amounts of rain, but all coming at you horizontally and at tremendous speed. All around you is spray, and all the tops of the swells are being whipped up into mist. By far one of my favourite parts of nightwatch: squalls and the unbelievably large number of stars.
We also had a few dance parties this passage for various birthdays which were a lot of fun. Strobes are always useful for events such as these, and Jose dancing on the table adds that extra little touch. For music, Jose and Tav produced extravagant drum beats on the big drum in the hold. Jer also engaged most of us in a very entertaining game of silent football which had all of rolling around laughing while trying not to be burned by ‘Mr Commisioner Sir.’
Our first landfall was Hiva Oa; one of the Marquesan islands that we visited last offshore as well. I never quite get used to the landscape of French Polynesia. The huge jagged ridges, all completely covered in super lush jungle/bush is so beautiful, and makes for great hiking. Hiva Oa certainly did not dissapoint. We spent our first day just exploring the tiny little town and developing what would be an ongoing love affair with baguettes and fruit juice in cartons. Really, it was just nice to be on land and walking around.
The passage also included some of the best rain squalls Ive ever seen. Karen, Chris and I were on watch one night when a fantastic one hit. It was like Nairobi amounts of rain, but all coming at you horizontally and at tremendous speed. All around you is spray, and all the tops of the swells are being whipped up into mist. By far one of my favourite parts of nightwatch: squalls and the unbelievably large number of stars.
We also had a few dance parties this passage for various birthdays which were a lot of fun. Strobes are always useful for events such as these, and Jose dancing on the table adds that extra little touch. For music, Jose and Tav produced extravagant drum beats on the big drum in the hold. Jer also engaged most of us in a very entertaining game of silent football which had all of rolling around laughing while trying not to be burned by ‘Mr Commisioner Sir.’
Our first landfall was Hiva Oa; one of the Marquesan islands that we visited last offshore as well. I never quite get used to the landscape of French Polynesia. The huge jagged ridges, all completely covered in super lush jungle/bush is so beautiful, and makes for great hiking. Hiva Oa certainly did not dissapoint. We spent our first day just exploring the tiny little town and developing what would be an ongoing love affair with baguettes and fruit juice in cartons. Really, it was just nice to be on land and walking around.
Tourist poses after our first ice cream and juice purchase.
I love the tiny islands as opposed to the big cites of the US. Just small towns, super friendly people, and tons of kids to play with. We had a ton of fun when we found a group of younger kids playing around in the surf and joined in with them for the afternoon. To explain, there was surge coming into the beach (it wasn’t really a beach, it came right up to a cement wall of sorts) and then smashing over the shallows into the wall where it would rocket up into the air, completely soaking anyone in the vicinity.
One such 'blast' and an unfortunate kid who got caught in it...he was alright by the way.
After some coaxing (and mocking) from the kids, we jumped off the wall into the surge (quickly getting away from the wall so as not to be squished...) and had an amazing couple of hours just playing around in the surf and chatting with these kids (finally, a use for highschool French...) 
Very fun.
The last time we were in Hiva Oa a dance troupe came down an performed for us near the dock, so we looked into whether or not they would be interested in doing it again with us this time. They came back with a resounding ‘yes’ but wanted to ‘give us a proper welcome’ this time and do it at another location. Since they needed a couple days, we took a day and a half trip over to Tahuata before we would return for the dancing.
Our first day on Tahuata was spend in a tiny village called Hapatoni. I had an absolutely fantastic day and Mary and I were on top of the world; we got to play volleyball! I definitely spent my entire five hours playing ridiculously satisfying games of volleyball with a group of local highschool/university students in their dirt court. Highlight: two fantastic blocks in a row...oh it was beautiful.
Our first day on Tahuata was spend in a tiny village called Hapatoni. I had an absolutely fantastic day and Mary and I were on top of the world; we got to play volleyball! I definitely spent my entire five hours playing ridiculously satisfying games of volleyball with a group of local highschool/university students in their dirt court. Highlight: two fantastic blocks in a row...oh it was beautiful.
I loved this.
They were planning a traditional dance practice that night (for an upcoming wedding) so they invited us all back later that night for some dancing. It was very fun. First they practiced all their dances for us, then they definitely made us come up and try some of the dances with them. I doubt there is anything funnier than watching my dad (or any of the male crew/trainees for that matter) concentrating quite intently on performing a Marquesan fertility dance...classic. Antony and I did a quick instrument run back to the Grace, and we were able to perform a few songs for them (complete with fiddleJ ).
We moved around the corner the next morning for some snorkeling, and we ended up being able to get a dive in as well which was great. Saw a big manta ray and were able to follow it for a bit which was amazing.
We moved around the corner the next morning for some snorkeling, and we ended up being able to get a dive in as well which was great. Saw a big manta ray and were able to follow it for a bit which was amazing.
Our manta. They are amazing to watch underwater. Im loving the underwater digital.
Took the video camera down on the dive which will be very neat (though, I was definitely taped while doing some sort of ridiculous dance while in scuba gear...embarrassing).
We went back to Hiva Oa and had an amazing night with the dancing. They showed up at the dock with trucks to pick us up, and we all arrived at a sort of hall with torches and drums set out all outside. It was amazing to drive up into this fire-lit place amongst all these intense drum rhythms. They didn’t say anything to us when we arrived, just put flowers behind our ears, and palm leaves around our necks. They did some of their tranditional dances for us, then we were up there again dancing. Definitely busted out our awesome dancing skills from Hapatoni.
We went back to Hiva Oa and had an amazing night with the dancing. They showed up at the dock with trucks to pick us up, and we all arrived at a sort of hall with torches and drums set out all outside. It was amazing to drive up into this fire-lit place amongst all these intense drum rhythms. They didn’t say anything to us when we arrived, just put flowers behind our ears, and palm leaves around our necks. They did some of their tranditional dances for us, then we were up there again dancing. Definitely busted out our awesome dancing skills from Hapatoni.
Mary, myself, and Bec in our greenery after dancing
Then came a great meal that they had prepared for us, and some awesome hangout time. We had brought instruments with us so we did a few songs for them (a neat instrumental one with the fiddle/mando/guitars/drum which was a lot of fun) which went really well. It was a very neat feeling to be playing music with and for them and both sides enjoying themselves immensely. We sang Twist and Shout for fun... we all ran out amongst them, grabbed partners and did the classic dance...very fun, everyone was busting. Played music and danced with them for a while afterwards, and just enjoyed hanging out. Had a lot of fun with the fiddle; the chief came up and wanted to try it out, as did a bunch of the drummers. Tav, Jose, and Jordan (not to mention Noah, who was a star) drummed right in with their drummers which was awesome. Both sides loved it, and it is amazing having that many super talented drummers on so many absolutely massive drums... fantastic.
(Minor violation on the way back to the dock when the driver tried to give me more of a ‘souvenir’ than I was ready for...awkward but hilarious nonetheless.)
After Hiva Oa we went to Nuka Hiva (also visited last offshore), where we enjoyed a fantastic pizza place, many people got tattooed (and I very much enjoyed watching...and got oh so close to getting one myself), and has a delightful freshwater shower. The tattoos turned out really well; very clear and defined, and there were some super neat designs.
From Nuka Hiva, we had a three day passage to an atoll called Apataki. A group of us set out to navigate the passage by celestial only, and decided to do the whole process longhand (doing the calculations with tables and almanacs instead of the computer) and tranditionally. In hindsight...would have been better to figure out how to do the longhand method before we left...and as such we had a fun time teaching ourselves how to use them while trying to work our sights through at the same time. In the end we ended up getting it pretty close, and have big plans to use our fantastic skills on our next passage. It was very neat to be doing everything completely as it would have been done a hundred years ago; we used DR’s for our sights based only on course and speed (which we got by trailing the taff rail log instead of by GPS.) Ooh, on the passage we also made probably the worlds best lime-aid with limes given to us in Nuka Hiva...delicious. We also had more than our fill of pamplemousse (which may or may not have had amusing effects on our GI tracks...no comment), and tried inventive ways of cooking coconut. So far my favourite is coating it in melted brown sugar and frying it a bit...so very good.
Apataki was probably my favourite spot thus far (maybe a tie with Hapatoni...). Its this tiny little atoll in the middle of nowhere, with a little town which revolves around black pearl farming, and completely poweraid blue water.
(Minor violation on the way back to the dock when the driver tried to give me more of a ‘souvenir’ than I was ready for...awkward but hilarious nonetheless.)
After Hiva Oa we went to Nuka Hiva (also visited last offshore), where we enjoyed a fantastic pizza place, many people got tattooed (and I very much enjoyed watching...and got oh so close to getting one myself), and has a delightful freshwater shower. The tattoos turned out really well; very clear and defined, and there were some super neat designs.
From Nuka Hiva, we had a three day passage to an atoll called Apataki. A group of us set out to navigate the passage by celestial only, and decided to do the whole process longhand (doing the calculations with tables and almanacs instead of the computer) and tranditionally. In hindsight...would have been better to figure out how to do the longhand method before we left...and as such we had a fun time teaching ourselves how to use them while trying to work our sights through at the same time. In the end we ended up getting it pretty close, and have big plans to use our fantastic skills on our next passage. It was very neat to be doing everything completely as it would have been done a hundred years ago; we used DR’s for our sights based only on course and speed (which we got by trailing the taff rail log instead of by GPS.) Ooh, on the passage we also made probably the worlds best lime-aid with limes given to us in Nuka Hiva...delicious. We also had more than our fill of pamplemousse (which may or may not have had amusing effects on our GI tracks...no comment), and tried inventive ways of cooking coconut. So far my favourite is coating it in melted brown sugar and frying it a bit...so very good.
Apataki was probably my favourite spot thus far (maybe a tie with Hapatoni...). Its this tiny little atoll in the middle of nowhere, with a little town which revolves around black pearl farming, and completely poweraid blue water.
Aloft, coming into Apataki.
The passage into the atoll was super small so it took a while getting in (and I got to go aloft to help navigate...not going to lie, that was fun, I was excited to be useful like that...)
Looking outwards from inside Apataki.
The first day was Mary’s birthday, and was spent snorkeling around the bay and walking around the tiny bit of the atoll that we were docked on (we also may have eaten our weight in ice cream). Very cool snorkeling; sting rays, huge blue clams, tiny beautiful feathery things (I have no idea what they are...), and tons of bright coral fish.
The first day was Mary’s birthday, and was spent snorkeling around the bay and walking around the tiny bit of the atoll that we were docked on (we also may have eaten our weight in ice cream). Very cool snorkeling; sting rays, huge blue clams, tiny beautiful feathery things (I have no idea what they are...), and tons of bright coral fish.
Im quite proud of this photo. They're such amazing-looking animals...
The next day a group of us had various birthday adventures (for Tristan and Jer), and I got to go on a dive with the guys which went really well. Saw tons: lionfish, boxfish, stingrays, eels, needlefish, parrotfish, and were circled a few times by huge schools of baracuda. Had fun filming on the bottom with flips and dancing too... We spent the entire afternoon and night hanging out with the local kids which was so very fun. It all started with a sea-slug fight (disgusting...one was definitely stuck down my back for an hour before I noticed...). A game of soccer started up after that and I hung out in the water with a few of the younger kids and the digital camera (which they had a blast with).
We headed back to the boat and spend a few hours just playing tag, dancing, using the ropeswing, and swimming around the dock/boat/lines with them all. It was as close to Kenya as Ive had for so long; I loved it.
Fun on the dock at Apataki
The kids are awesome, very tough and very hilarious. Had a bit of a dance party with everyone on the dock after dinner which was fantastically fun (Antony definitely did the worm...spectacular), then had to say our good-byes and take off for Papeete.
Our time in Papeete has been spent mostly exploring around the narrow (and extremely packed) streets. Our diet has consisted of baguettes, brie, fruit slurpees, steak and fry sandwiches, juice, and pain au chocolate...oh and crepes. We had quite a successful roadtrip around the islands in a massive 9-seater mercedes van. Found a little church service in the morning and were welcomed right in. Kids and Church cervices are probably my two favourite things about French Polynesia (though, lets be honest...nutella is up there). The singing in the services is amazing; I love the lack of intrumental, and the amazing harmony. Even though its all in Tahitian and I cant understand a word, I could sit and listen to the singing forever. Ive been taping the music in all the services so you’ll most certainly be hearing it when I get back.
Our time in Papeete has been spent mostly exploring around the narrow (and extremely packed) streets. Our diet has consisted of baguettes, brie, fruit slurpees, steak and fry sandwiches, juice, and pain au chocolate...oh and crepes. We had quite a successful roadtrip around the islands in a massive 9-seater mercedes van. Found a little church service in the morning and were welcomed right in. Kids and Church cervices are probably my two favourite things about French Polynesia (though, lets be honest...nutella is up there). The singing in the services is amazing; I love the lack of intrumental, and the amazing harmony. Even though its all in Tahitian and I cant understand a word, I could sit and listen to the singing forever. Ive been taping the music in all the services so you’ll most certainly be hearing it when I get back.
Our convoy during the roadtrip...three cars/vans in total. This was the little church we joined for the morning.
After the church service we found a couple waterfalls and had a fantastically cold swim. Sarah (and other Leg 3-ers from last time: we also may have taken a leaf photo in honor of you guys...you know what I mean...very funny). The rest of the day was spent just cruising around to different beaches, checking out different parts of the island, and pretty much just having fun as a group.
Our sunset creativity. S=Claire and Bec, A=Tav and I, L=James, T=Josh and Mary, S=Sam and Tristan.
We’ve definitely had to do dock watch as well... Ah ha ha, we mock coastal trainees so much about it, but now we definitely have to do it…rip off. The cause: there was a thief. Yup, someone actually came aboard when we were tied to the dock and there were 30 people sleeping up on deck. Noah saw him walking around on deck checking for music players and got Pop. The guy found Lexi’s iPod and was just walking up the deck when my dad pounced. He had been sneaking up the starboard side (I really prefer the word ‘stalking’), and he made a flying football tackle and landed this kid. Oh its so awesome! Anyways, Jord ran onto the dock (the guy had gotten up, but then fallen over the side while trying to run away) and the security and police then came and took care of him. In the end, the iPod was saved (though the earphones were not), and my dad is pretty much amazing (come on...a flying tackle!)
The work days went really well. Our hull team managed to sand, prime, and paint the entire hull in two days...not too shabby.
Our hull team (sorry, it wont let me flip the photo...lame); painting hats and all. We were disgustingly filthy.
I doubt I have ever been so completey filthy, and it took us at least 45 minutes to scrub all the black hull paint off of ourselves afterwards...overall a thoroughly hilarious and fun two days.
Oh, I should also explain the concept of ‘Le Trucks’. Every night, about 100m from where we’re docked, a bunch of vans pull up, flip open their sides, and cook up all manner of delectibles for rather cheap. Its fantastic, I really don’t know why Canada hasn’t caught on to this whole thing yet. So every night we go over there at around 8 or 9 and gorge ourselves on chocolate crepes, waffles, and other delicious (though perhaps not quite as nutritious...) dishes. Really, I cant explain how great it is. There’s tables set up all over the place, they play music...its so delightfully tacky and perfect - I cant explain it.
All the trainees left on the plane last night. Even though there are a lot of people staying over for leg 3, its still so hard to say goodbye to people you’ve gotten to know so well and shared so much with in the past two months. There were definitely great amounts of tears at the airport, and we were all pretty sullen when we got back to the boat.
Overall, Leg Two was amazing. As a group everyone got along and worked together ridiculously well, and we were able to challenge each other on a regular basis. There were so many hilariously funny and ridiculous adventures (we were told off by the police the other night for waltzing...granted, it was in the middle of a traffic circle...), all the passages, islands and kids are unforgettable, and I am going to be missing people pretty much until I see everyone again when we get in.
If you guys made it to the end of this update...good job, kudos to you. Sorry it was so ridonculously long...hope it was fun to read! I hope all is well at home, the family says hi. Thank you to everyone who sent me notes/emails/wallposts; I love hearing from you guys. Sorry if it takes me too long to get back to you guys, my internet hits are few and far between. Oooh, and send me mail! The salts office will have all the mailing addresses, and there is few things as exciting as getting mail at the end of the leg. (Also, I promise to send at least something small in return ). Take care, and keep in touch.
Oh, I should also explain the concept of ‘Le Trucks’. Every night, about 100m from where we’re docked, a bunch of vans pull up, flip open their sides, and cook up all manner of delectibles for rather cheap. Its fantastic, I really don’t know why Canada hasn’t caught on to this whole thing yet. So every night we go over there at around 8 or 9 and gorge ourselves on chocolate crepes, waffles, and other delicious (though perhaps not quite as nutritious...) dishes. Really, I cant explain how great it is. There’s tables set up all over the place, they play music...its so delightfully tacky and perfect - I cant explain it.
All the trainees left on the plane last night. Even though there are a lot of people staying over for leg 3, its still so hard to say goodbye to people you’ve gotten to know so well and shared so much with in the past two months. There were definitely great amounts of tears at the airport, and we were all pretty sullen when we got back to the boat.
Overall, Leg Two was amazing. As a group everyone got along and worked together ridiculously well, and we were able to challenge each other on a regular basis. There were so many hilariously funny and ridiculous adventures (we were told off by the police the other night for waltzing...granted, it was in the middle of a traffic circle...), all the passages, islands and kids are unforgettable, and I am going to be missing people pretty much until I see everyone again when we get in.
If you guys made it to the end of this update...good job, kudos to you. Sorry it was so ridonculously long...hope it was fun to read! I hope all is well at home, the family says hi. Thank you to everyone who sent me notes/emails/wallposts; I love hearing from you guys. Sorry if it takes me too long to get back to you guys, my internet hits are few and far between. Oooh, and send me mail! The salts office will have all the mailing addresses, and there is few things as exciting as getting mail at the end of the leg. (Also, I promise to send at least something small in return ). Take care, and keep in touch.
